Epsom, Surrey
A Personal Connection to History
Introduction
While my current focus is on the coastal communities of West Sussex, I have a personal connection to Epsom, Surrey, where I once lived. This page explores the fascinating history of this historic town, from its Anglo-Saxon origins to its development as a world-famous spa town and home of the Derby.
Epsom, situated towards the north of Surrey at the foot of the North Downs, approximately 15 miles from central London, possesses a rich and varied history extending back to well before the Norman Conquest. Initially a small rural community, Epsom has undergone significant transformations over the centuries, evolving into a notable spa town, the home of the world-renowned Epsom Derby, and a commuter suburb with a distinct identity.
The name "Epsom" has undergone several transformations throughout history, with the first written record of a settlement appearing in the 10th century as Ebesham. By the time of the Domesday Book in 1086, it was recorded as Evesham, and subsequent documents show variations such as Ebbesham, Ebesam, Epsam, and Epsome before the modern spelling Epsom became established by 1718. The prevailing theory suggests that the name originates from a Saxon landowner, with derivations proposed as either Ebba's ham or Ebbi's ham, where the Old English term ham signifies a home or settlement.
Prehistoric and Roman Epsom
The earliest evidence of human activity in Epsom dates back to the mid-Bronze Age (2500 – 700 BC), with the discovery of a field system near Horton Hospital indicating early agricultural practices in the area north of the present town centre.
Archaeological discoveries have revealed that the region was inhabited long before recorded history, with evidence of farming and settlements dating back thousands of years. The fertile lands and strategic position at the foot of the North Downs made it an attractive location for early inhabitants.
The Roman presence in the area is evidenced by the frequent unearthing of Roman bricks and tiles near Epsom Court, suggesting the possibility of a Roman villa having once stood on that site. This indicates Roman influence in the vicinity, particularly given Epsom's location near Stane Street, the Roman road connecting London and Chichester.
While no major Roman settlement is believed to have existed in Epsom itself, the proximity to this significant Roman road would have undoubtedly facilitated communication and movement through the area. The archaeological evidence suggests that the region was part of the broader Roman economic and transportation network in southern Britain.
Following the Roman withdrawal from Britain in the early 5th century, the area likely reverted to more localized control before the arrival of Anglo-Saxon settlers in the late 6th or early 7th century, who established what would become the foundation of the modern settlement of Epsom.
Timeline of Key Dates in Epsom's History
Bronze Age (c.1500–1200 BC)
Earliest evidence of human activity in the Epsom area – Bronze Age farming pits and ditches near Horton indicate a prehistoric settlement.
6th–7th Century
Anglo-Saxons establish a settlement (Ebbisham). Epsom is part of Copthorne Hundred; a Saxon church likely present. High-status 7th-c. garnet pendant found near St Martin's.
1618
Traditional date of Henry Wicker's discovery of the Epsom mineral well during a drought. Epsom's fame as the source of Epsom salts begins.
1780
The Derby (originally "Derby Stakes") is run for the first time on 4 May. Named after Lord Derby, it becomes Britain's most famous flat race.
1847
Railway arrives: Epsom's first train station opens (London and South Western Railway). Dramatically improves access to London and spurs suburban development.
1853
Founding of Epsom College (originally Royal Medical Benevolent College). The school opens by 1855, providing education for orphans of doctors.
1913
During the 1913 Epsom Derby, suffragette Emily Davison runs onto the track and is struck by the King's horse, Anmer, at Tattenham Corner. She dies of her injuries, making world headlines.
Modern Era
Epsom evolves into a modern commuter town while maintaining its historic character and racing heritage. The town continues to host the world-famous Derby and serves as a hub for healthcare and education.
Key Historical Features
Spa Heritage
Epsom's mineral waters made it a fashionable spa resort in the 17th and 18th centuries, attracting visitors including Charles II and his court.
Racing Tradition
Home to the world-famous Epsom Derby, the town has been at the heart of British horse racing since the 18th century.
Architectural Heritage
From the iconic Clock Tower to Epsom College and historic churches, the town boasts significant architectural landmarks.
Healthcare Legacy
The town's history as a center for healthcare includes the famous Epsom Salts and a cluster of mental health hospitals.
The Spa Era
The discovery of Epsom's mineral waters in 1618 by Henry Wicker marked the beginning of the town's transformation into a fashionable spa resort. By the 1660s, Epsom had become a popular destination for London's elite, including King Charles II and his court.
The spa's popularity led to the development of elegant facilities, including the Assembly Rooms (1692) and the New Wells (1707). The town's mineral waters, known as Epsom Salts, gained international fame for their medicinal properties.
Henry Wicker, a local cow herder, is often credited with this discovery after his cows refused to drink from a pool on Epsom Common. The water was found to have purgative qualities, and its key component, magnesium sulphate, was identified by chemist and botanist Nehemiah Grew.
The social life of Epsom during this era flourished with an influx of visitors from high society, including notable figures such as Samuel Pepys and Nell Gwyn. Located just 15 miles from London, Epsom became a sought-after destination for leisure and health.
John Livingstone, an apothecary who relocated to Epsom, played a significant role in promoting the spa, opening "New Wells" in 1707 in a more central location and adding entertainment to attract visitors. The entertainments available in Epsom during its spa heyday were diverse, including dancing, music, card games, bowling greens, and possibly even a cockpit and bear-baiting pit located behind the Assembly Rooms.
John Toland, who resided in Epsom between 1710 and 1718, described the town as being more akin to the civilized towns of Holland than the English countryside, praising its healthy air, excellent mineral waters, and well-appointed houses built for visitors.
However, the popularity of Epsom as a spa began to decline around 1725. This decline may have been due to the rise of other spa towns like Bath and Tunbridge Wells. Despite the decline of its spa status, the era had a lasting impact on Epsom, leading to the construction of numerous large houses by wealthy individuals who appreciated its proximity to London. The town had transformed from a small agricultural community into a more substantial settlement with elegant residences.
Horse Racing Heritage
Epsom's association with horse racing began in 1661 with the first recorded race on Epsom Downs. The town's racing heritage was cemented in 1780 with the inaugural running of the Derby Stakes, now the world's most famous flat race.
The Epsom Derby has witnessed many historic moments, including the tragic death of suffragette Emily Davison in 1913. The racecourse continues to be a major venue in British racing, hosting both the Derby and the Oaks.
Even during Epsom's time as a spa town, horse racing on the Downs was already a popular attraction. The establishment of The Derby in 1780 and The Oaks in 1779 significantly elevated Epsom's status and transformed it into a global center for horse racing. These two races became integral to the English horse racing calendar and are considered among the five English Classic races.
The naming of the Derby is attributed to a coin toss in 1779 between the 12th Earl of Derby and Sir Charles Bunbury at Lord Derby's estate, The Oaks, to decide the name of a new race for three-year-old colts and fillies. Lord Derby won the toss, and the race was named in his honor. The inaugural running of the Derby took place on May 4, 1780, and was won by Sir Charles Bunbury's horse, Diomed.
By the 19th century, the Derby had become a major highlight of the English social and sporting calendar, so much so that Parliament was often requested to close to allow members to attend. Samuel Pepys mentioned Epsom in his diary in 1663, and Charles II is known to have attended races there. The famous racehorse Eclipse was trained on Epsom Downs in 1769.
The Derby race initially covered a distance of one mile but was extended to its current distance of a mile and a half in 1784, the same year Tattenham Corner was introduced. To accommodate the increasing popularity of racing, the first grandstand was constructed in 1830, followed by later developments such as the Queen's Stand in 1995 and the Duchess's Stand, which opened in 2009.
The Epsom Downs racecourse is known for its unique and challenging characteristics, including its undulating terrain, the uphill start, the sweeping left turn at Tattenham Corner as horses descend, and the downhill straight with a final sharp ascent. This demanding course is considered a true test of a thoroughbred's stamina, balance, and agility.
Victorian Development
The arrival of the railway in 1847 transformed Epsom into a commuter town. The Victorian era saw significant development, including the construction of the Clock Tower (1847-48) and the founding of Epsom College (1853).
The town's infrastructure expanded with the establishment of gas lighting (1839) and the Epsom Volunteer Fire Brigade (1870). New churches and civic buildings appeared as the town grew.
The first railway station, Epsom Town Station, was opened in 1847 by the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway (LBSCR) as the terminus of its branch line from Croydon via Sutton. Subsequently, a second station, Epsom (later known as Epsom (LSWR)), was opened in 1859 by the London and South Western Railway (LSWR), providing a through service from Waterloo to Leatherhead.
The Epsom Downs branch line, primarily intended for racegoers, further expanded the railway infrastructure, opening in 1865. By 1929, railway services were consolidated with the construction of a new, larger Epsom station on the site of the former LSWR station by the Southern Railway.
The mid-19th century also saw the establishment of essential utilities in Epsom, including gas supply from 1839, the opening of the Epsom waterworks in 1853, and the commencement of electricity generation in 1902. These developments were vital for supporting the growing urban area.
Initially, sewage disposal was a challenge, but a sewerage system began to be developed in 1854 with the construction of a sewage farm. A prominent landmark of this period is the Clock Tower, erected in 1848, replacing an older watchhouse and symbolizing the establishment of more modern local government in the form of the Epsom Board of Health in 1850.
The administrative structure of Epsom also evolved, with the establishment of Epsom Urban District Council in 1894, its expansion to include Ewell in 1933, and its renaming as Epsom and Ewell Borough Council in 1937. This reflected the increasing urbanization and the need for a unified local authority.
The Hospital Cluster
Between 1899 and 1924, Epsom became home to five large psychiatric hospitals, forming the "Epsom Cluster." These hospitals, including The Manor Hospital and Horton Hospital, made Epsom a center for mental healthcare.
The hospitals played a crucial role in both World Wars, treating wounded soldiers. In recent decades, most of these hospitals have been closed and their sites redeveloped for housing.
The London County Council (LCC) acquired the Horton Manor estate in 1896 to address the overcrowding of mental asylums in London. Although the initial plan was for six hospitals, five were eventually built. This cluster became the largest of its kind in Europe, encompassing five main institutions: Manor Hospital (opened 1899), Horton Hospital (opened 1902), St Ebba's Hospital (initially Ewell Epileptic Colony, opened 1903), Long Grove Hospital (opened 1907), and West Park Hospital (opened 1924).
By 1924, these hospitals could accommodate approximately 10,000 patients suffering from mental illness, learning disabilities, and epilepsy. The Epsom Cluster was largely self-sufficient, featuring its own farms for food production, workshops for patient labor, chapels (including the Horton Chapel, now an arts and heritage venue), theaters for recreation, a central power station and waterworks near Long Grove Asylum, and a dedicated light railway, the Horton Light Railway, for transporting supplies and personnel between the hospitals.
Each hospital within the cluster had its own specialization; for instance, St Ebba's initially catered to individuals with epilepsy and children, while Manor Hospital focused on patients who could benefit from training and rehabilitation. During both World Wars, some of the hospitals were repurposed as war hospitals; Horton Hospital, for example, treated over 44,000 wounded servicemen during World War I.
Following changes in mental health care practices that emphasized community-based care, most of the hospitals in the Epsom Cluster gradually closed down in the 1990s and early 2000s. Much of the land previously occupied by the hospitals has since been redeveloped for housing. Efforts are ongoing to preserve the history of the Epsom Cluster through exhibitions and research, with significant archives held at Surrey History Centre.
Impact of the World Wars
During World War I, the Derby was moved to Newmarket, and Epsom's hospitals treated wounded soldiers. The town experienced significant bombing during World War II, with over 440 high-explosive bombs and V-1 flying bombs hitting the borough.
The post-war period saw the establishment of the Metropolitan Green Belt, which protected Epsom Common and Epsom Downs from development.
Epsom's hospital cluster played a crucial role during both world wars. Horton Hospital, for example, treated over 44,000 wounded servicemen during World War I. Several hospitals in the cluster were temporarily repurposed to serve as war hospitals.
World War II had a particularly significant impact on Epsom. The town was within range of German bombers and later V-1 flying bombs, resulting in damage to various parts of the town. Air raid shelters were constructed throughout Epsom to protect residents, and a Home Guard unit was established.
Many evacuated children from London were housed in Epsom during the war, and rationing affected daily life as it did throughout Britain. The Derby races were suspended during both wars, with the famous race being held at Newmarket during World War I.
After World War II, Epsom experienced significant changes with post-war reconstruction and housing developments. The war had accelerated certain social changes, and the town saw shifts in its economic focus and urban development.
The establishment of the Green Belt around London in the post-war period helped preserve Epsom's access to green spaces like Epsom Common and the Downs, maintaining the balance between urban development and natural landscapes that still characterizes the town today.
Modern Development
Recent decades have seen Epsom evolve into a modern commuter town while maintaining its historic character. The development of the Ashley Centre (1984) and Epsom Playhouse has enhanced the town's retail and cultural offerings.
The redevelopment of former hospital sites has created new residential communities, while the town center has been modernized with improved transport links and shopping facilities.
Notable Figures
Henry Wicker
Discovered the Epsom mineral well in 1618, leading to the town's development as a spa resort.
Emily Davison
Suffragette who made history at the 1913 Derby, bringing attention to the women's suffrage movement.
John Parkhurst
Upgraded the wells in 1707, establishing Epsom as a premier spa destination.
Epsom has been home to and associated with a diverse range of notable individuals. Among those born in Epsom are singer Petula Clark, actress Alex Kingston, BBC Radio 2 presenter Jeremy Vine, and actor Warwick Davis.
Notable residents have included writer Isabella Beeton, former Prime Minister the 5th Earl of Rosebery, comic actor Norman Wisdom, and snooker player Jimmy White. Suffragette Emily Davison's name is forever linked with Epsom due to her tragic protest at the Derby.
Archibald Primrose, the 5th Earl of Rosebery, had a significant connection to Epsom, settling there and leaving land to the borough. Henry Dorling, the first clerk of Epsom racecourse and stepfather of Isabella Beeton, also resided in Epsom. While his connection was brief, author P.G. Wodehouse was born in Epsom.
Architectural Heritage
Epsom's architectural heritage spans centuries, from the medieval St Martin's Church to the Victorian Clock Tower and Epsom College. The town's buildings reflect its evolution from a rural settlement to a spa town and modern commuter hub.
Notable buildings include the Assembly Rooms, the Old Well House, and various historic churches and public buildings that contribute to the town's character.
The Epsom Clock Tower, constructed in 1847, stands as a prominent symbol of the town. It replaced a 17th-century watchhouse and was built to commemorate the establishment of more modern local government. Designed by London architects James Butler and Henry Hodge, the 70-foot tower is built of red and Suffolk brick in a Byzantine style.
It originally featured heraldic lions made of Caen Stone at its base, which were later replaced by lanterns in 1902 and then by the current globe lights in 1920. A bell was added to the tower in 1867. Historically, the Clock Tower served various purposes, including housing the lock-up and, at one point, the town's horse-drawn fire engine.
The Assembly Rooms, built in 1692, represent another significant landmark, holding the distinction of being one of the first of their kind in England and the oldest surviving spa assembly rooms. During Epsom's spa era, it served as a central hub for meetings and entertainment, housing a coffee house, tavern, billiard room, and gaming rooms. Its unique design allowed carriages to drive through the downstairs alley and courtyard.
Epsom Town Hall, with the current building dating to 1934, is another key architectural feature. The first town hall, built in 1883 in the Italianate style, was replaced by the current Neo-Georgian structure designed by Hubert Moore Fairweather and William Alfred Pite. It serves as the headquarters of Epsom and Ewell Borough Council.
Beyond these key landmarks, Epsom retains many older buildings, particularly within the Epsom town centre conservation area, noted for its abundance of Late Stuart, Queen Anne, and Georgian houses. St Martin's Church, with its medieval origins and later rebuildings, also contributes to the town's architectural heritage.
Economic Landscape
Epsom's economy has evolved from agriculture and spa tourism to a diverse mix of retail, healthcare, and professional services. The town's proximity to London has made it an attractive location for businesses and commuters.
Key economic drivers include the retail sector, healthcare services, and the racing industry, which continues to attract visitors and generate economic activity.
The 17th and early 18th centuries saw the rise of the spa industry, centered around the purported medicinal properties of Epsom Salts, which brought considerable fame and prosperity to the town. The influx of visitors stimulated the local economy, leading to the establishment of numerous inns, taverns, shops, and entertainment venues.
Subsequently, horse racing, particularly the Epsom Derby, became and remains a dominant economic force, attracting significant tourism, media attention, and betting activity. From the mid-18th century until around 1872, the manufacture of gunpowder was an industry in nearby Ewell, providing local employment despite its inherent dangers.
Other historical businesses in Epsom included a tile-making industry in Horton around 100 AD and brickmaking on the Common. Records from 1861 provide a snapshot of the local economy, revealing a significant number of bootmakers/shoemakers, dressmakers, milliners, and hatters, catering to the clothing and footwear needs of the time, as well as ostlers, coachmen, grooms, harness makers, and farriers, reflecting the reliance on horses for transportation.
The Dearle family operated a candle manufacturing business for approximately a century. Henry Dorling established a printer's shop in 1821. The town's market, located on the site of a former medieval pond, indicates a long tradition of local trade. The establishment of Epsom College in 1855 marked the growth of the education sector in the town.
Administrative History
Epsom's administrative history reflects its growth and development. The town gained Urban District status in 1894 and became a Municipal Borough in 1937. Today, it forms part of the Borough of Epsom and Ewell within Surrey.
The local government has played a crucial role in managing the town's development, preserving its heritage, and providing services to residents.
In medieval times, the area was under the jurisdiction of manors belonging to entities such as Chertsey Abbey and Merton Priory. The parish of Epsom was established as a local board district in 1850, a response to growing concerns about public health.
These districts were reconstituted as urban districts in 1894, leading to the formation of Epsom Urban District Council. In 1933, the urban district was enlarged to include Ewell and Cuddington, and in 1934, it was renamed "Epsom and Ewell". It was designated a municipal borough in 1937, granting the chair of the council the title of mayor.
Since 1974, it has been a non-metropolitan district, retaining its borough status and mayoralty. Notably, the Epsom and Ewell Residents Association, a non-national political party group, has been the dominant force in local politics since the 1930s.
For policing purposes, Epsom was part of the Metropolitan Police District until 2000, when it transferred to Surrey Police. This administrative evolution reflects Epsom's position at the edge of London's influence, balancing its Surrey identity with its close connections to the capital.